Being Black in Mali

Multiple volunteers have asked about Malians reactions to me since I’m Black. And I’ve had some pretty interested discussions about it.

For example, the other day, a guy was walking with me in the market in the big city. He knew I was a Peace Corps volunteer and American. But he turns to me and says in Bambara “You are Malian right?”

I laugh. “No, I’m a Black American.”

He then says in English (because he thinks I don’t understand) “You are really a Malian, right?”

I laugh again, “No, really, I’m American. A Black American.”

“What’s you American first name?”

“Veronique.”

“What’s your American last name?”

“Porter”

“Oh, well Porter and Dembia are the same so you are really a Malian. You must tell people now that you are Malian.”

I laugh really hard and tell him that’s not true.

I was on public transport with two other guys, one young and one old. We were waiting in a town on the main road for the bus to fill up. The young one could understand my accent and he would talk to me and then repeat what I said to the older guy. The old guy asks where I’m from and what I’m doing in Mali. I say that I’m a Peace Corps volunteer from America. Then he says, “No, where are you really from?” The young guy and I insist I’m from America and the old guy just shakes his head. I tell him there are Black people in America. And he tells the young guy “She may come from America, but she is really from Africa. Look at her skin. Maybe Cote d’ivoire, Ghana or Senegal, but she is African.”

Another time, I went to the mayor’s office to say hi and I stayed to charge my computer. I sat and chatted with the men there. We talked for a long time about many things. And the same questions came up (all in bambara):

“Where are you from?”

“Ameriki”

“No, where are you really from?”

“Chicago.”

“You’re mother is in Chicago?”

“Yes.”

“Ok, but where is your family from? You come from America but you are African.”

“There are Black Americans in America.”

“Yes, but they are originally from Africa. Which country is your family from?”

“Most Black Americans don’t know exactly where our families come from in Africa. Because of slavery... all of that history is lost.”

“Well, call you mother and ask her.”

“She doesn’t know.

“What about your grandfather? Call your family and ask them.”

“But they don’t know. Many people don’t know. Because of the slavery system that history cannot be found.”

“Ok, but you are African though.”

“Ok.”

Sometimes, in the cities, people can just tell I’m American by looking and me or when I speak, and I think it’s a little weird. And sometimes, people think I’m from Ghana since I speak English and dress very Western. However Malians know I’m not Malian. And for the most part they all agree that I’m African.

Being Black means they expect me to speak Bambara pretty well or other West African local languages.

Being Black means people will talk to me first or only if I’m in a group of whites.

Being Black means people tend to take care of me more when I’m alone, esp in the cities.

Being Black means I can more easily get the “real” price in market.

Being Black here means I can get closer to Malians because although I’m from America, I’m also "African."

Every now and again, I get ignored in a group of whites but I can’t think of any true down sides to being Black here.

And although I love being Black anywhere and everywhere, I def love being Black in Mali.